Ortona: The Basilica of San Marco. A Church Shrouded in Mystery
An Old Ruin in the Town of Ortona a Mare, in the Province of Chieti. What Does It Hide? What's Its Story?
Ortona: The Basilica of San Marco. A Church Shrouded in Mystery
It all started with a conversation with Anna, a staff member at the municipal library of Ortona. We were discussing art history and Ortonese culture when the conversation shifted to a Longobard-era church: The Basilica of San Marco in the locality of San Donato, a small hamlet of Ortona. Intrigued by our pleasant chat, I tried to research online, but found very little information. However, Anna later surprised me with a small booklet dated 1982, containing just two pages about the church.
I barely had time to read the content before I hurried to meet her for more detailed information. She confirmed the existence of the Basilica thanks to archaeological excavations conducted in 1979, but the exact location of the ruins (as very little remained) hadn't been precisely determined. Back at home, I prepared for the next morning, ready for a new adventure. The sun rose, and I woke up early for breakfast. As the sun rose higher, I was already in the car, contemplating what I might discover.
Upon reaching the location and parking, I set out on a narrow path framed by olive trees. Seeing some houses along the path, I decided to take the nearby asphalt road, thinking it might be private property. But barely a hundred meters into this road, I encountered a man in his sixties with his wife, burning olive stumps. I thought to myself, 'What better opportunity to ask a local?' Armed with my best vocabulary, I introduced myself. Mr. Remo introduced himself cordially and was willing to answer all our questions. Speaking about the history of the Basilica and recent archaeological excavations, he explained in detail how to reach the ruins. I wasted no time and joined him to visit the famous church. An opportunity I couldn't let slip away. We got back on the main road and resumed the path we had left a few minutes earlier, accompanied by Remo, who told us the history of the surrounding houses. He made it clear that the path was privately owned, but the adjacent houses were abandoned. We descended into a grassy valley with olive trees until we reached a wall about 60 cm high, made of rough bricks and pebbles. We had arrived, and finally, my curiosities were about to be satisfied.
We walked along the southern perimeter until we found the entrance to the structure, then headed east to the back, accompanied by mosquitoes and snakes. Unfortunately, the Basilica wasn't as I had envisioned. Tall grass and shrubs dominated to the extent that entering was impossible. Just enough time to take a few photos and we resumed our path, accompanying Mr. Remo back to his home. On the way back, after a pleasant chat with our new friend, he showed us another monument in the area, unfortunately also reduced to ruins: The Tower of the Moor. I said my goodbyes and thanked Remo, following the paved road that marked the beginning of this adventure.
There were houses along the left side, and my eyes were drawn to an old barracks from 1940, now repurposed as residences. The entrance gate and some turrets suggested that during World War II, Allied troops were stationed there. I continued descending until I reached a complex of inhabited houses. The architecture suggested they were from around 1900. I ventured inside, following a small path that ran alongside the houses and led me to an old railway line, the former Sangritana, which connected Ortona to San Vito Marina. Before us lay an unparalleled panorama: Acquabella Beach. So named for its clear and crystalline waters.
I continued for about a hundred meters until I reached a bridge, walked alongside it, and immediately noticed a small path leading inland. I took it and arrived at a former observation tower used to protect against Saracen and Turkish raids. Unfortunately, this monument had also become ruins, with enormous boulders composed of stones and elongated pebbles lying in the Moro River bed. Venturing further in, my eyes landed on a small patio with a description of the point of interest. I took some photos and began my return journey.
Author
Actor and director, seeks to combine work-related travel with travel for passion. A great enthusiast of the mysteries of the places visited, doesn't shy away from artistic monuments, unknown places, and above all, culinary delights.
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